Kick off your tour of Laois in the county town of Portlaoise, where you can grab a coffee before embarking on your adventures for the day. Stop by Square Coffee Bar on Main Street Lower for a hot drink and a nibble before hiring a bike from M Kavanagh Bicycle Hire. Take in the sights as you make your way to the county’s oldest monument, the Rock of Dunamase.  

Initially an early Christian settlement, the Celtic fortification has faced Viking pillages, Cromwellian invasions and more, but still stands proud, albeit in ruins, atop one of the highest points in the town. Roam the overgrown remains on a clear day and you’re in for beautiful countryside views that stretch out on the horizon.  

Continue to make the most of the fresh air on the Glenbarrow Eco Walk. Developed in association with the local community, this 8.3km walk showcases the natural landscapes of Glenbarrow Wood alongside details of the area’s environmental significance. Check out the map of the trail beforehand and learn about each stop, from the three-tiered waterfalls and wild fruit to the Barrow Gorge.    

If you’re a fan of period dramas, a trip to Emo Court Gardens should be top of your list. Open from April to September, the Neoclassical gardens were designed with the Earls of Portarlington in mind and features manicured lawns. Meanwhile the scenic woodland walks and the grounds' 20-acre lake are open all year round. Not to mention the Neoclassical mansion itself, which looks like something straight out of Pride and Prejudice. The house may be closed for restorations, but its exterior is still worth a visit.  

Where to eat and stay in Portlaoise  

When midday hunger pangs hit, make your way to The Pantry Café in the heart of town. Warm yourself up with the O’Mimo’s spiced chicken toastie or cool down in their colourful walled garden with a seasonal salad bowl.  

Although they offer vegan and vegetarian options, the chefs at Kelly’s Steakhouse are known for their award-winning cuts of meat. Decked out with moody lighting and comfy booths, the atmosphere – combined with rich dishes like their slow-cooked beef ragu – make it a great spot for a romantic dinner.    

For a more relaxed vibe, pull up a stool at one of the tall tables in Treacy’s Bar and Restaurant, one of Ireland’s oldest traditional pubs. Set in an authentic thatch cottage on the outskirts of town, the Treacy family have been running the premises since 1780, serving classic pub grub for generations. Feast on a juicy burger with skinny fries, paired with a perfectly pulled pint of the black stuff.   

Once you’re filled to the gills, spend a memorable night in the Laois countryside between Portlaoise and Abbeyleix at Glamping Under the Stars. They offer a variety of accommodation options, each with their own distinct personality. Opt for the Meadow Glampsite and spend the night in a cosy bell tent, a shepherds’ hut or a wood cabin, or choose from their themed grass-roofed hobbit houses on their Mountain Glampsite. Either way, you’ll have full access to the communal kitchen, the onsite wildflower meadow and a campfire – perfect for toasting marshmallows under a sky of constellations.   

Just south of Portlaoise lies the smaller town of Abbeyleix. Once set on the banks of the River Nore, the whole town was levelled and rebuilt due to constant flooding. Despite this, the town is still dotted with historic estates and imposing abbeys that make for a great day of exploring.  

Dive into the archives of the town and wider Laois at Abbeyleix Heritage House. A carpet factory that provided handcrafted textiles for the RMS Titanic, the building now holds artefacts that tell local stories, including those about warring tribes in Laois and the suppression of monasteries during the reign of King Henry VIII.   

Go even further back in time with a visit to Aghaboe Abbey. Much like the Rock of Dunamase, it has seen its fair share of conflict since it was first built by St Canice in 576AD. After centuries of attacks and fires, the abbey was rebuilt in 1189 and still holds onto some of its unique features, like its intricately carved three-light window in the east wall.   

Abbeyleix is also home to some stunning natural scenery. Enjoy the fresh air at the Heywood Gardens in nearby Ballinakill. Designed by one of the leading architects of the 20th century, Sir Edwin Lutyens, the gardens include 50 acres of lush lawns and woodland, with sculptures, terraces and fountains nestled within.   

Appeal to all five of your senses at The Sensory Gardens. The vibrant flora are designed to engage your sense of sight, smell and touch, while wind chimes target your hearing, all with the goal of providing a truly calming experience.   

If you packed your walking boots in the hopes of squeezing in a hike on your trip, you’re in for a treat on the Killamuck Bog Loop. Approximately 7.5km, the trail is moderate in difficulty and is best suited towards seasoned hikers. So, make your way to the starting point at the Abbeyleix Manor and follow the green and purple arrows as they guide you along forest paths and boglands, taking in sights of the local wildlife as you go.   

Where to eat and stay in Abbeyleix  

For a sweet treat to start your day, there’s Mueller and O’Connell Bakery on Main Street. Indulge in a crispy rhubarb crumble danish and a frothy cappuccino, or stop by at lunch for one of their delicious sandwiches made on their own bread.  

Save room for dinner at Bramley, a Michelin Guide-recognised Irish restaurant focused on seasonal dishes using local produce. Start with their seared scallops before moving on to wild Irish venison served with spiced date purée.   

After, toast to a day well-spent at Roots Bar at the Abbeyleix Golf Club, just 1km from the main town. If you’re lucky, there could be a bit of live music on.  

Fancy spending the night? Check out all the accommodation options in Laois and pick the one for you.   

Durrow may be a small village, but it’s well-worth a slot on your itinerary. Located in the south-east of Laois, it is split by the River Erkina and has plenty of scenic landscapes on both sides of the water.   

One way to soak up all the incredible views in the area is on the Durrow Leafy Loop trail. Starting and ending in Durrow, the 14.3km route may be strenuous, but you’ll be rewarded with paths that cut through conifer woodlands, closer views of rivers Erkina and Nore, as well as glimpses of the village’s historic landmarks like the grounds of Castle Durrow.    

If you want to get a closer look at the estate, stop by the gardens at Castle Durrow after your hike.   

Unlike your typical public garden where they’re perfectly manicured and designed to appeal to the eye, visitors are encouraged to get their hands dirty at the overgrown oasis that is the Dunmore Country School Kitchen Garden. Learn from ecological experts as they guide you through organic growing methods, harvest techniques and even the ins and outs of beekeeping, all with the goal of starting your own garden back home.    

Where to eat in Durrow  

Set in a 250-year-old building in the middle Durrow, Bowe’s Foodhall and Café serve up tasty dishes using local ingredients, from freshly baked scones for breakfast to gourmet sandwiches for lunch.   

When the sun goes down, head to the Castle Arms Hotel Restaurant for some lovely grub. The family-run business offers a cosy atmosphere, as well as hearty meals that will warm you from the inside out. Think juicy steaks served with a generous portion of creamy mash, fried onion and mushrooms.   

End the night with a cheeky drink at Bob’s Bar, a traditional Irish pub in the heart of the village. Enjoy a pint while browsing the Irish trinkets, photos and memorabilia plastered across the walls and catch live music from artists based in Laois and beyond.